Some notes on chisel bevel angles
Western chisels typically come with a 25° angle, while Japanese chisels come with a 30° angle.
Mortising chisels may already have a more beveled angle when you purchase them. When sharpening a chisel, it is generally best to stick to the product's original bevel angle. For special applications, however, you can change the bevel angle.
Softwoods: If you only work with softwoods, such as spruce, pine, or similar, especially if you are touching up some previous work without Hammering, i.e., using only the pressure of the palm of your hand, the bevel angle can be slightly reduced, to 23° for Western chisels and 28° for Japanese chisels.
Finishing is easier with this angle, but keep in mind that the cutting edge is immediately much more sensitive. Do not use a hammer or levering movements (which should always be avoided anyway).
Also, don't underestimate the effort required to create a sharper angle: you will always have to grind the entire bevel.
You will only find the need for a sharper angle in exceptional cases, and the altered chisel should therefore be reserved exclusively for these tasks. Specifics.
For softwoods, the standard angle is almost always good enough! It may also be the case that a more beveled angle is needed for softwoods. This can happen if you're working with spruce with a pronounced knot pattern that has the effect of hardwood on the cutting edge, or if you decide to give the chisel a real hammer blow.
Hardwood: Definitely increase the bevel angle when working with hardwoods like beech and oak. This makes the cutting edge less sensitive and prevents frequent nicks in the chisel caused by the increased stresses that occur when working with hardwoods.
A more beveled angle also allows for occasional leverage, which is difficult to avoid, especially with deep mortises. In contrast to a more acute angle, it's actually quite easy to produce a beveled angle.
It's not necessary To grind the entire bevel, simply grind the first 1 or 2 mm behind the cutting edge. Don't forget, if you want to sharpen the chisel to a sharper angle, you'll need to grind the entire bevel angle.
You can increase the standard 25° angle of European chisels to 30°, and the standard 30° angle of Japanese chisels to 35°.
Experiment with all the intermediate values! Optimal cutting performance may lie somewhere between the two extremes!
Some tips for buying chisels
A good chisel can only show its worth if it's used for its intended purpose. A construction site is the wrong place for an expensive chisel, because there the wood will be spattered with concrete and the risk of theft will be high.
The best Work can only be achieved if the chisel is sharp. Dry grinding wheels should never be used on fine chisels, as they soften the steel and the cutting edge will last a very short time.
Beware of manufacturers' marketing that practically promotes their chisels with the slogan "Sharp and ready to use: just unpack and start carving!" Always sharpen your new chisels first.
You need to flatten the back of the chisel until it is absolutely flat; otherwise, you can't expect precise finishes until you've sharpened the cutting edge.
Then sharpen the bevel and finally hone both the bevel and the flat face. Don't be afraid to use a sharpening guide.
Don't There's nothing more frustrating than sharpening or resharpening poorly because you were simply holding the chisel in the wrong position while working it on the sharpening stone.
Perhaps you've heard a story like this: someone found their grandfather's antique chisel in a corner of the attic. It still worked, having been sharpened brilliantly to an edge that lasted for centuries, and it became the tool of choice for every job.
Stories like this are actually true, and notIt's a miracle, thanks to the properties of carbon steel.
Carbon Steel
Carbon steel is excellent for sharpening and has high hardness. In the 19th century, virtually all cutting tools were made of carbon steel, the name given to steel not alloyed with any other substance.
It can contain up to 1.7% carbon. However, it has some disadvantages: it is brittle, can be denatured when heated, and is not stainless.
Many today's manufacturers avoid these disadvantages by using steel alloys. Adding chromium and nickel makes steel stainless, adding tungsten and molybdenum makes it heat-resistant, and adding titanium hardens it.
Foundries mix additives to achieve the best combination for their product.
However, these advantages also bring their disadvantages. Stainless steel tools are less easy to sharpen, but they clog grinding wheels easily, and the cutting edge dulls more quickly.
Since the disadvantages of carbon steel used in portable cutting tools are more than offset by its advantages, it is preferable to use high-carbon steel chisels over alloy steel ones.
Japanese chisels are made of simple high-carbon steel. The Cherry and MHG chisels are made of alloy steel.
| No. |
Use |
Size |
Diameter |
| 1 |
16 mm carpenter's blade |
320 mm (12.598 inch) |
43 mm (1.693 inch) |
| 2 |
50 mm carpenter's blade |
355 mm (13.976 inch) inch) |
49 mm (1.929 inch) |
| 3 |
50 mm blade for carpenters and joiners |
320 mm (12.598 inch) |
49 mm (1.929 inch) |
| 4 |
40 mm blade with fiber-coated beech handle for carpentry |
333 mm (13.110 inch) |
37 mm (1.457 inch) |
| 5 |
12 mm blade for making deep mortises |
378 mm (14.882 inch) |
49 mm (1.929 inch) |
| 6 |
14 mm blade for making deep mortises |
370 mm (14.567 inch) |
40 mm (1.575 inch) |
| 7 |
4 mm blade for general cabinetmaking. This size is typical for Western chisels with this type of blade. |
250 mm (9.843 inch) |
26 mm (1.024 inch) |
| 8 |
28 mm blade mm blade width for large woodworking.
| 298 mm (11.732 inch) |
32 mm (1.260 inch) |
| 9 |
Japanese chisel (Oire Nomi), standard size, 30 mm blade for woodworking |
228 mm (8.976 inch) |
25 mm (0.984 inch) |
| 10 |
Japanese chisel (Tataki Nomi), 36 mm carpenter's blade |
294 mm (11.575 inch) |
27 mm (1.063 inch) |
